Bambu studio p1s reddit I go to calibration in Bambu Studio, and it says that Flow Dynamics Calibration is now fully automatic? Is it? Really? How does it do that? And, most importantly, can I trust it? Once you have the filament imported to Bambu Studio (or OrcaSlicer, same procedure): Select a . Let's me keep my settings instead of theirs. Just so you know, I have 4 years prior 3d printing experience. 7mm after print bambulab p1s did change from the 0,4nozzle to 0,6 and just change nozzlesize in bambu studio Just getting into all of this, as I got my P1S today, and making sure I get familiar with the right combo of tools from the beginning, before it's too late to switch back. I’ll update whether this is true or not when I get the beta. I here orca slicer is better. Orca Slicer has few things that Bambu Studio doesn't have that can be useful for you but that doesn't mean "generally recommended over". If you look at the filament profile you will find "Max Volumetric Speed". 56. 00 and Bambu Studio 1. If you're using a . Another option would be to just put the json file on printables, but it rejects json files even when they're placed in a . Hello everyone, I ordered the product in the image. I really wish I'd waited 6 months to pull the trigger and ended up with a Bambu. true. I am very new to 3d printer. but if you only print with PLA, TPU, PETG, or ASA then P1S is great. I’m using the engineering plate and glue stick because I was worried that PETG might be hard to remove, but that turned out to be a non issue - the parts come off easily after they cool. 4 largely just puts a bambu printer in a different "gear" when it comes to how fast it will attempt to move the x/y axis. Here is an example comparing - P1S is the Top/Left, MK3S+ is the bottom/right and both using the same filament brand (third party, not bambu, running with the Generic PLA profiles in Bambu Slicer and PrusaSlicer). Basically the title. 91K subscribers in the BambuLab community. Find a second project like a gridfinity organizer, build plate holders, hot end/nozzle boxes, a v-spooler, or some fidget toys and use those as flush objects. Have a mk3s+ at home and bambu x1s at work. Create one and base it off of the Bambu Basic PLA profile. Apparently not. Aug 10, 2023 · I’ve just upgraded my P1P to a P1S using Bambu Upgrade Kit. 2mm. I have been printing PETG for years on all kinds of printers but really struggled with the Bambu PETG on both my P1S and my Voron. 6 Nozzle (or . If you have multiple printers from multiple brands then Orca can be really beneficial by unifying everything under one app. I then re-sliced the same STL and it came out gorgeous now. You can connect from Bambu studio on the same Lan (but not the app). Select the Filament To the right of the name box is an EDIT button. I'd love to hear about your experiences with fuzzy skin and whether you've discovered any settings that yield even better results. Oh wait in orca you can connect to klipper or octo in the device part. Bambu Studio - Camera feed not working I saw that some of the early reviewers had run into this problem and mentioned they were working on fixing it. I just had a rude awakening to just how fucked Bambu's closed ecosystem/shitty data privacy was a la 3D Musketeers. And cleaned the build plate with soap and water. The hotter bed makes for a hotter chamber and less warping. I just got my X1-Carbon yesterday and sadly I find out that it isn't working in my Bambu Studio. There are two different 3d printing hobbies: printing and fiddling with printers. With bambu printers, I've found you can go less on the setting. Or check it out in the app stores Hello guys, i got my P1S 2 weeks ago and im trying Bambu studio Hello fellow bambu lab product users, I just received my first 3D printer (bambu lab P1S) yesterday and have really enjoyed the ease of being able to blindly trust the bambu slicer and have a ton of successful prints right out the gate, but there’s always room for improvement. but they also say textured pei plate is not good for calibration. Was using an Anycubic Mega X prior to owning an P1S and well - what should I say … leagues between them. Bambu puts in this warning about vitrification temp, but I think the concern is unfounded if you are not very high above it. r/BambuLab. Still haven’t figured it all out yet, but have sliced and printed a few models. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Special thanks to LeonFisherSkipper on GitHub for sharing this brilliant idea with us! Bambu Studio's description of the Reduce Infill Retraction setting. In the preview, drag the slider to the start layer of the temp you want it at and right click the little + sign and add custom g-code. I know the P1S already has this fan installed along with the aux part cooling fan AND the chamber fan It was printed on the P1S using the standard PolyTerra PLA profile at 0. You can transfer files (via ftps). Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. I’ve been using Elegoo printers until now. 5 hrs, quality is 95% A Reddit devoted to Teardrop Trailers and Tiny Campervans, it's the open road for us! Bambu Studio should support tabs or something P1S at 599$ and X1 at 1299$ Speed is actually an issue for the bambu labs and I find myself turning it way down for anything but flat or non complicated parts. 1mm Interface pattern: rectilinear Top interface spacing: 0mm Test 2 Enable support Type: normal (auto) Style: Snug Threshold angle: 25 Remove small overhangs: ticked Support / raft interface: Bambu support for pla Should I be emphasizing reliability and high quality builds over speed and good quality prints? How much would I benefit from the open-source nature of Prusa products compared to the Bambu's commitment to proprietary hardware/software (e. I put in the access code and it still says failed to connect to the printer. 265 Nozzle first layer 260 rest, bed at 90 initial 85 rest. In the P1S print above I have also increased the top fill layers to 5 and slowed the top fill speed to 100 (it was worse before this). Also, what are the thoughts on Bambu support PLA. I use ludicrous mode, increase filament temp by 10C, and a 0. Bambu Lab X1 or P1 series printers are fast, good quality and (so far) seem to be great platforms that are easy to use and probably has the best cost to feature ratio out there. I have used bambu studio to do auto-calibration. The first one is a temperature tower which will show you how the filament behaves at different temperatures. For Sunlu PLA Plus, I started with the Bambu Basic PLA profile and changed the following on the "Filament" tab. The default slicer profiles, in my opinion, have too few solid top layers and run the top layer too fast. So the new version of Bambu Studio supports the P1S. These printers weren't sold on being able to produce perfect, flawless prints without any tweaking. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 94 Pressure Advance = 0. I don't bother with the gimmick speeds as they will ultimately result in lower quality. Be aware that the Pressure Advance "modern version" has been integrated into Bambu Studio. I know orca has a lot more options but didn't know if there was anything done in the bambu version that benefited. I have a P1P. Reply reply UPDATE: I calibrated the printer and filament again using the temperature test from orca, along with the 2 calibrations found within the new version of Bambu Studio. So obviously the "how on earth do I do that"!? panic button is currently going through my mind while Googling to get some context. It is on the device page. 7. 03. Thanks! I almost bought a filament dryer. 02 line and the 0. UPS has my shiny P1S on the truck for delivery today ;-) I understand the P1 series does not offer a Spaghetti Detection feature, but doing some research it appears that there may be some alternatives We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The difference between the 0. When printing something with multiple plates from MakerWorld using the Bambu app, you get the nice feature where you can click "Next Plate" or "Print again" and in both cases you can choose which plate to print, and which elements of that plate, etc Actually the new flashforge 5m pro can do anything the bambulabs can do and I'd argue it's even better at printing carbon fiber nylon then the Bambu labs up until last year the Bambu labs was the undisputed king with the creality coming in second but now the new flasforge adventurer 5m pro is neck and neck with the bambulabs and it's levels ahead of the creality and its half the price of the I also make sure the filament is set to PETG basic (I use some other cheaper stuff but it still works) in Bambu Studio and then finally, I use the liquid glue before each print. The filament comes into the machine at 55c, the bed is at 69c and the nozzle is at 255c. Couldn't get the eSUN PLA+ official profile to work correctly. 5th) and I plan to use it entirely offline as I do not have internet access in my workshop… Got a spool of Bambu PETG Basic and just picked the built in PETG profile. I ended up printing at 250c with an 80c bed at regular speeds with mostly success. Silent mode is a bit of a stupid thing to be honest because all it does is basically reducing the speed by 50% across the board - and that is the speed configured in the project in Bambu Studio for all iterations. 23 votes, 42 comments. There is also an ironing setting in bambu studio similar to that in cura. Change the parameters (anything listed) you want. I started a print job using an SD card. webkit2gtk4. Get the Reddit app so my 42mm in the model are 41. in my experience with my x1c, the ironing i get is smooth as glass. 0 already. Aug 15, 11:53 UTC Investigating - From 2023/08/15 10:03 to 11:10, and 12:11 to 12:23 UTC, due to abnormal network traffic, some users are experiencing login and cloud printing issues. 4mm Nozzle, textured PEI plate (No adhesive), printer closed, freshly dried spool of 3DJake PCTG transparent (30€/Kg). I also sliced and reprinted the piece using the Bambu slicer after the calibrations resulting in quality that I am satisfied with. Having calibrated it I have reduced the Flow Ratio to 0. I tried half the normal values at first and I felt this was giving me better results (and barely affects print time honestly). If theres alot of overhangs and retractions you slow it down. Download the softfever version, its smoother & includes a lot more features to help with calibration & printing. I really want the P1S but cost (600 USD P1S vs ~$460 K1C), fear of obsolescence past 2028, closed nature of bbl printers (software, parts, etc), my practical hate for creality because of all my frustrations with their ender line, and supposed difficulty of maintenance with BBL's push me towards bambu more. That way I can pick a starting point for the Fine Calibration and enter it manually. 05. After some scaling (mostly decreasing) the helmets come out great. ) are equal to in terms of flow ratio. In the image below, I've showcased what the infill areas are, as well as what opposing walls are. * Dialog / Dialogue Editing * ADR * Sound Effects / SFX * Foley * Ambience / Backgrounds * Music for picture / Soundtracks / Score * Sound Design * Re-Recording / Mix * Layback * and more Audio-Post Audio Post Editors Sync Sound Pro Tools ProTools De-Noise DeNoise Look, I just got my P1S Thursday. restricted to Bambu Studio slicer)? What else should I consider before making a decision? Just got my P1S, and although the quality has been great, aren't I supposed to run a flow calibration? I'm using eSun PLA+, and chose that filament in the drop down box. Sorry forgot to mention that I am using Orca Slicer (fork of Bambu Studio) Bambu Studio has two calibration options, flow rate and k value. Riser for AMS and ventilation, Swifty because it only took like two minutes, feed guides for the PTFE tubes, Y-splitter for the filament dryer, hinged cover for the P1S display so the glow isn't annoying, a few respool spools for any cardboard spool filaments I pick up (and then a Pastamatic to do the respooling). After printing a few pre-sliced models, I decided to slice my own models and also use my own generic PLA. I own the P1S, and all my presets are based off "@BBL X1C. My p1p was bricked in just 10hrs and took a month to resolve. Bambu handy is really useful and monitoring my prints when im out and about is priceless. 6 over a . New to a Bambu Labs printer, moving away from my Prusa MK3S. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Bambu Studio should support tabs or something upvotes Bambu Lab P1S combo comments. 93 but all other settings are the same as Bambu PLA. So wider extrusion widths just result in slower movement speeds. 8. It does not turn off Wi-Fi. The P1S is a decent machine. I just received my P1S (no X1 here), and I assume it has a 4mm nozzle installed. 2-1. Speeds are all 100, yes. Issues with the calibration tab not working, AMS color mapping not working on the print dialog, and others have been posted a lot here in the last day. It started fine, but at some point it just paused. It does have some flaws, and its no near perfect. For easy shapes you could print stuff from 2 hrs to maybe 1. json file. I run a home assistant plug-in I wrote to monitor mine - the only thing I’m missing is video. i am using Same situation as others are saying. I think some terms are getting mixed up here. In the instructions it says to add a M710 A1 S255 in the machine Gcode start for it to use the MB fan. I got a P1S yesterday and while its great for the most part, I was pretty disappointed with the top surface quality (compared to my prusas). although it seems yours isn’t getting down deep enough just barley passed the surface to actually iron it flat smooth. i’ll share a picture this evening. The higher bed temp has came handy for high temp filament. Flow Ratio = 0. It's just non bambu printers. 3mf in Bambu Studio, export the . Will there be any other settings I need to make via Slicer or will I be able to continue as “send and print” like bambu filaments? I would like your help, I am still in the learning phase. This will have the printer skip the code detection for a Bambu lab official build plate and just run the print as normal. I made the changes mentioned here to the official profile and now eSUN PLA+ prints perfectly for me on my P1S. Want to add to the discussion? Post a comment! Mar 16, 2024 · I am very new to 3D printing and very interested in purchasing a BL P1S printer. I believe that I've found the cause of this: The three ways I start a print on the P1S are: Prepare my model and click "Print" from Bambu Studio Walk to the printer and select the file on the LCD screen Open the MicroSD Card tab in Bambu Slicer and click on the Print button under the model file From the Bambu Status page. Hello u/imtakingapooprn!Be sure to check the following. I went straight to Bambu Studio, since I got used to not using Cura. recently received my P1S and it works out of the box. What settings are you guys using to get better high quality prints in Bambu studio. I just want to know what the maximum speed is for ironing while still achieving great results. 2 you can go down to 0. Prusas are for people who have strong ideals about opensource software/products, people who want excellent customer support, or people who have something against the country Bambu hails from. Edit: I'm using bambu studio and orca on a non bambu printer. Also another thing to keep in mind: The P1S is a very precise machine, but it's not a miracle maker, you will not be able to print some miniatures without having to do some model cutting Other you simply cannot print without having them in multiple STLs of every part to assemble because they are too complex or don't sit on the bed properly. Reply reply In Bambu Slicer we now have the option to select P1S as a machine, however when selected it actually sets the presets to X1C so the warning is actually saying we sliced for an X1C but want to print on a P1S, nothing to do with the P1P > P1S upgrade path. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now The new Bambu Studio Version 1. 12 extra fine fuzzy skin settings, with a point distance of 0. 10. Hello fellow bambu lab product users, I just received my first 3D printer (bambu lab P1S) yesterday and have really enjoyed the ease of being able to blindly trust the bambu slicer and have a ton of successful prints right out the gate, but there’s always room for improvement. Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. 2mm layer height, than make sure the Top z distance is no more than 0. As the name implies, this setting will prevent retraction from occurring when the hot end travels over the "infill area". I got it with my AMS and have been using it for a bit with success. Click it. I had to mess with my flow rate and PA settings a bit using the built in calibration on the SoftFever/OrcaSlicer branch of Bambu Studio too. 06 layer height. For some reason after updating my a1 to the version listed here it stopped broadcasting in my network and being visible in bambu studio :( I can still use it using a script to force bambu studio acknowledging it (I found it online, it sends an ssdp packet to the port opened by the studio) But it's really not that convenient:( Yes, it'll work on a P1S, you have to have the proper firmware version 1. - Did the printer ship with a 4mm nozzle installed? - When I added the printer to Bambu Studios, should I also add a system preset for 4mm? Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. If those are your only two choices, I would say get the P1S. 104K subscribers in the BambuLab community. i am using the default generic PLA profile. In bambu I could not get it to pick up my printer but in orca it could. To decide which one you want to buy, just ask yourself if you want to print ABS, now or in the future. I've been having nothing but issues after the last couple firmware updates with my P1S and eSUN. I have found that I need to do 2-3 passes and throw out the outlier - there’s always 1 result that is a little odd. I haven't used my printer since the update to 1. I can change the speed mode (silent) from Bambu Studio. You want to adjust the "top z distance" (if it is the top of the support), which is under the support settings under "advanced" in Bambu Studio. zip file. I’ve followed the instructions exactly and all seems well. (The option was badly translated) So we could just put the files on a google drive. The P1S is the P1P fully enclosed with a couple of extra fans, a charcoal filter, and a cable chain. In the Bambu Studio slicer software is there a preset for the P1S? I use a P1P preset but have to confirm my printer every time since it says I’m using a different printer. But I found out that Orca Slicer is much better for calibration. P1S - 1. Or check it out in the app stores Those are features that bambu studio supports, but P1S doesn't I've recently purchased a bamboo p1s combo (ships sep. 07. So far it’s taken a big to get used to Bambu Studio and Handy… About the only real useful upgrades on the X1C are the hardened extruder gears for abrasives and the higher bed temp 100c vs 120c. Not bad for preorder. It would be great if someone knew what the flow rate Complete Calibration numbers (-20, -15, -10, -5, 0, etc. 02 to k=0. Looks like they did some quick fixes, so it's worth updating if you are on v2. If you do, get the P1S (because ABS needs an enclosure and a filter for fumes and particulates). A 115 bed also does wonders for ABS. I’ve found The Official Bambu studio to be pretty buggy & lacking in features. If you're on the fence and don't NEED to upgrade, you'll do just fine to hold off a bit and see if anything good is around the corner. Studio could print an actual turd on every plate and I’d STILL be grinning from ear to ear. Choosing a . Binding is where the printer gets associated with your Bambu account, and only needs to be done once (can be done either from Bambu Handy or Bambu Studio). Download a temp tower model and slice it. all of the squares look like layer lines with no ironing. I have printed Sunlu PLA+ at Normal speed without problems. Euros too … ;-) So back to my problem. However, I am quite nervous about making the purchase based upon all the reviews and comments I have read in this forum. In Bambu Studio, go to the "Device" tab then "Print Options" and disable "Enable detection of build plate position". I printed some Cosplay helmets for my kids. Reset to factory, cleared out my profiles and started over. If I had a bambu my bambu would show in device. Do P1P owners that have updated to P1S with the Bambu kit -or- all parts independently need to choose the P1S model in the machines list or stick with P1P? 196 votes, 76 comments. 8 nozzle. So try both and choose whatever you like. I use bambu slicer, works great for me. 6g to 8g. is it because of speed? also bambu studio recommends doing calibration when using other filaments. Everything about it screams quality. 0-2. 032 Nozzle Temp should be 220 C per Bambu's profile Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Bambu Studio should support tabs or something upvotes P1S at 599$ and X1 at 1299$ upvotes People keep expecting Bambu Labs to make their printers work to professional quality without the end-user putting in any real effort. Cloud Printing Failure Resolved - This incident has been resolved. g. I got my P1S 2 months ago, and it worked very well until yesterday. It's under the quality tab about 3/4 of the way down the list Reply reply Reddit's #1 spot for Pokémon GO™ discoveries and research. But other than that it’s very close to what I would find manually. Honestly, I really thought Bambu Studio would try to screw me by going "nawww, I see what you did there we're going to just increase the amount flushed since you made the tower 30% the size it normally is!" And to my amazement, that didn't happen, and it shaved off almost 30 minutes from my print, and moved my tower waste from 18. I have been loving my P1S. but prints fail a lot more than they should. 00. 4. tbh none of them look ironed. Unable to set a print queue in Bambu Studio (don't think its possible), perhaps it is (or will) be possible in an upcoming update, or in Orca Slicer, or some other alternative? Prime lines: Even if you disable extrusion check, there are some prime lines in the corners of the plate, these won't be removed after pusing the print with the printhead. In a browser you can download the 3mf and open it in Bambu Studio. I'm not at the house, so I can't inspect the printer ATM. 03 line is quite small (to my eyes) - who would have thought it would make such monumental difference? With the 0. I would say Bambu Studio is WAY more mature and feature rich and Creality Print. I also have just done manual tests with orca. However, other than adding the Gode to enable the MC board fan there isn’t anything in the instructions about Bambu Studio printer/slicing settings. Stringing is gone. The Bambu P1S and X1C are objectively better in every way except for customer support and if you absolutely require your printer be opensource. i686 : WebKitGTK for GTK 3 and libsoup 2 Reddit's most popular camera brand-specific subreddit! We are an unofficial community of users of the Sony Alpha brand and related gear: Sony E Mount, Sony A Mount, legacy Minolta cameras, RX cameras, lenses, flashes, photoshare, and discussion. I have been using it for 3 days now and I am very happy. Hey all, completed my P1S upgrade this past weekend and I'm curious what the recommendations are for profiles. Or check it out in the app stores   HEPA Filter for Bambu X1C/P1S Chamber Exhaust 2. 9. Hi everyone, I'm printing an object with a large top surface, and I just realized that it takes 3 hours for ironing in an 8-hour print. Sorry I just starting with Bambu (P1S) after selling my Ender 3 so kinda new to the Bambu Studio. For example AMS syncing, the different build plates and many material profiles included, starting prints and controlling the printer remotely, and more. We are sound for picture - the subreddit for post sound in Games, TV / Television , Film, Broadcast, and other types of production. The engineering, the chassis, the attention to detail in construction, all far, far greater than my FlashForge machine. Quite tall, nice and round. I print full build plates of rocket nose cones for disposable rockets. I have a roll of polysonic, tbh you can't go faster without issues, bambu is too fast already, I can't really use it at ultra high speeds and I already tried almost everything. Yeah sorry, it's PLA. Last metadata expiration check: 0:58:06 ago on Sat 11 Mar 2023 01:56:33 PM PST. Print things where you want the cool texture of the build plate upside down. Speed settings are in the process settings, but limited by machine capability and by filament profile. For folks that want to print my recommendation is the Bambu. It's a region-locked printer, so I use LAN or an SD card to print with. 8, whatever) at very top of settings. Like Flow Rate is always higher for bigger nozzles The way Bambu studio and orca slicer work they just slow the speed based on max flow rate. Hi everyone, I'm new to Bambu Lab, waiting to receive the printer ! I'm currently using SuperSlicer (in advanced mode) with a Prusa. Supports might be better in Prusa Slicer, but Bambu Studio has so many Bambu-Printer-Specific features that might make your life more difficult if you didn't have them. There's people who do talk about head collision printing cubic or rectilinear, but I haven't experienced that on the Bambu, only if the filament isn't going down cleanly due to a flow rate or speed issue pulling the filament up a bit before it cools. 2. 86K subscribers in the BambuLab community. As a clarification lan only mode doesn’t work either. There isn't much to say here except that everything just worked. Spending some additional money up front will help you avoid wasting additional time (and money) tweaking, tuning and troubleshooting a cheaper printer. Thanks for your input! I've fiddled a bit with bambu studio, and managed to export the filament profile as . 2mm nozzle, try . . For the Bambu, would you recommend to switch to another slicer like Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer ? I there some advantages using one or another (and the fact that I'll still be running the MK3s with SuperSlicer) ? For Bambu Strong PLA: Manufacturer Recommended Settings, User Recommended Settings, Downloadable User Presets, etc. I am new to 3d printing and would love to know what settings you guys are using. I save these for each filament I own, so I can refer back to them if I lose the settings. 10mm nozzle by default. 9 for Bambu Studio, and tried printing yesterday. 229 votes, 44 comments. Use gyroid infill on larger surface prints (or in general), grid infill when the nozzle crosses cooled grid lines will cause a scraping noise resulting in filament bits sometimes flying around or worse grabbing the print and dislocating it from the print surface. I have P1S combo. I re-run the flow calibration from Bambu Studio, and it appears that the sweet spot have changed from k=0. I have used multiple types of PLA, and have had zero issues. I'd rather recommend you play with the speed in Bambu Studio and configure the project and just print normal. Im in canada and it was shipped within 3 days and arrived 4 days later. 12 does not produce M106 P3 S255 for PETG 363 votes, 52 comments. After checking the box, you also need to make sure that the slots you want to use are set for the same type and color filament. Aug 15, 2023. "When you have finished the slicing of 3D models files in Bambu Studio and started the print job through the cloud, to print successfully and display the print information of 3D models files in each client, we may forward the configuration information, disk information and G-code files (not including 3D mesh information) from 3D models files I have a P1S coming tomorrow and was wondering if there is any benefit to running the bambu slicer instead of orca. Was pretty happy with shipping speed. However, when I open Bambu Studios, it has system presets for 6-14mm nozzles, and is set to the . The X1C still kicks ass. been working quite well so far. Setup: Bambu P1S, 0. Not an issue for my eSun PLA+, however when switching to a new filament and getting failures while trying to tune the settings, i cant help but wonder am i missing something bigger. My overall impression is that this is a good machine, but not a holy grail. I’ve been printing on this thing 24 hours a day since I got it. I found it much harder to dial in than the Sunlu PETG. I had lots of stringing but when I switched to Bambu PLA Basic profile, boom! It's like magic. Smooth time-lapse with external camera on p1p/p1s/x1x is finally available!! I worked on it for days, did a thousand tests… Hey guys, Just got my P1S. Bambu Studio is fine. You can actually do maintenance on them, Bambu keeps the price low on replacement parts, nozzles etc so that part of your concern is a little misplaced. Just to be clear. Once the printer is bound to your account, you can use Handy, Bambu Studio, or Orca Slicer to log in to your account and control the printer. To experience this update firsthand, download the public beta version of Bambu Studio at [Reduce Purge Waste] and update your X1C printer to firmware version 1. And you can monitor via Bambu Studio. try using ‘concentric’ ironing pattern too, see if that makes it better. It's not. Ma question principale est la suivante : existe-t-il des recommandations d'utilisateurs réguliers sur les paramètres ou les ajustements pour différents cas d'utilisation ? Quick phonecall to a friend later, he agreed to buy my Creator Pro 2, and I pulled the trigger on the Bambu P1S with AMS. Damnn this is a game-changer! I had Generic PLA for a non-bambu PLA filament. Get the Reddit app The new Bambu Studio Version 1. From experience, buy the best 3D printer that you can afford in the beginning. The filament wasn't wet so I started on a quest to tune it and I think I have it pretty dialed. Haven’t had a single issue. I think you can upgrade the P1S gears. I can still print by manually loading things onto the as card but would rather use the connection via Bambu Studio ( Mac ) with either the cloud connection or lan only mode. EDIT: according to some guy on r/bambulab, the beta firmware has the ability to download timelapse files directly from Bambu Studio, so this is probably going to be obsolete as soon as the beta is released to the public. 01 IIRC, but check Bambu's site to be sure, and you have to create the profile from Bambu Studio under filaments, where you go to check all the filaments that you use, there's a new tab at the top for creating custom filaments that will appear on the AMS filament screen. But I haven’t used MW a ton for browsing for stuff. 1 is ready for download! 🤩 P1S at 599$ and X1 at 1299 I've had my P1S for a month now and I have printed both models from makerworld and my own. I use Orca Slicer rather than Bambu Studio as it has more calibration settings. First test went well, i used the generic PETG profile and 0. Recently i bought some creality PLA filament(not high speed ones). 10 and thickness also set to 0. If it's chipped Bambu filament, there's options on the Device tab in Bambu Studio to not update with the chips that you have to check to be able to lie to the AMS about what's loaded Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. 12mm z distance. Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. Members Online Expensive high flow TPU 95-HF PolyFlex, any advice for print or just use regular settings on X1 carbon? So, is the slicer in Bambu Studio a version of Orca? I just got my P1S and have been messing around with Bambu Studio (do we call it BS?). Requires a newer mac therefore i run bambu studio. If this isn't the case or you'd like to dip your feet into tweaking filament settings, install Orca Slicer (it's a fork of Bambu Studio) and run through the calibration tests. I think Bambu also has the bed set at 110C, which I take up just a bit to 115 because that's what I've used in the past. Reddit's most popular camera brand-specific subreddit! We are an unofficial community of users of the Sony Alpha brand and related gear: Sony E Mount, Sony A Mount, legacy Minolta cameras, RX cameras, lenses, flashes, photoshare, and discussion. As for printing from a web browser… I may be misremembering, but I don’t think you can do that at all. Support / raft interface: Bambu support for pla Top Z distance: 0mm Bottom Z distance: 0. I picked up a Bambu P1S combo last night at my local Microcenter. Any beginner's tip in this direction would be greatly appreciated! J'ai reçu mon P1S il y a presque une semaine et je viens tout juste de commencer à imprimer quelques bricoles. They are just so much faster and print perfectly right out of the box. The Silph Road is a grassroots network of trainers whose communities span the globe and hosts resources to help trainers learn about the game, find communities, and hold in-person PvP tournaments! 23 votes, 42 comments. I'm trying to play with the settings to get them tighter together and locked into the vertical walls better, as removing the supports tears the shit out of them. I see that the P1S Supposedly comes with a camera, but I'm not seeing it connected in Bambu Studio, and can't see it in the Handy App. I actually just used some Inland PETG this week for the first time. 38. Dec 1, 2024 · What about all the broken glass doors and transit damage due to poor packing, or how bambu is on like v9 of their AP/TH board because they can't seem to get it right. 2mm standard X1C settings in Bambu Studio as a baseline and bumped the temps up. Looking at my slice in Bambi Studio and the finished part together, I found the layers that are rough are the "overhang wall" layers in the sliced part. you can set it for yourself - but it does not do it automatically (alt least not with the recent g-code, that is generated by Bambu Studio, that is checked into git) also my Bambu Studio 1. fc37. The goal is to create a resource that not only lists the manufacturer's recommended settings but also includes user-recommended settings based on actual experiences. I printed the adapter for the spools. The whole thing with printers starting themselves I thought was bad but I didn't really think about how bad it was, especially for those with print farms. I thought my new P1S did the noise cancellation at the beginning when it was doing self test. I’m impressed with the quality of the prints that I’ve gotten so far. Ordered Wednesday, arrived Friday. got my P1S with AMS recently. 90% of the high quality reviews are sponsored and I don't really trust sponsored reviews. 1 month in and already had about 3 issues that weren't my fault. Especially with easy calibration options. stl's and then open those in Orca. 1 is ready for I prefer OrcaSlicer so lately I have been opening the . You can find it under , calibration , manual option , select pattern instead of line. I was thinking how incredibly loud it is compared to A1. . That being said its still cranking things out in half the time as my ender 3. Got the P1S with AMS. jbvsjnj sbikry jxpdtxka dook uyuwhb jwsk ggh cbox pexjexb exlpw