Best half ropes for trad climbing reddit. 3M subscribers in the climbing community.

Best half ropes for trad climbing reddit. Not sure what rope to go with and what thickness, would like to venture into large multi pitch routes. Personally I enjoy half ropes for easy trad (that often wanders) and multipitch trad (same reason) and I use a single for “sport trad” like a perfectly straight finger crack with bomber nut placements but more on my limit. The only time pre racking a single nut on a draw makes sense is when you know exactly which piece needs to go exactly where and you need to clip the rope super fast. But it's tougher for me to get excited about spending an entire weekend, driving 2-4 hours each way, etc etc just to climb something. Which is the best way for top rope belaying from the ground trad routes with bolted anchor when I do them with double ropes? Mi idea is I rappel joining both ropes Recover one of the ropes and untie the knot between 2 ropes The other rope remains hanging from the anchor and is homologated for top-roping (8. Add to that the potential for long abseils when I'm climbing mountain multipitches here or in the Alps as well as the added safety factor and its pretty much my goto system. For mountain routes I would add knowing how to belay with half ropes. The triple rating means that each rope has been approved to work on its own (as a single rope), as one half of a double rope system, and as one half of a twin rope system. Jun 19, 2020 · Having got fed up with dragging a sport single up trad routes, would like thoughts and recommendations for investment in half ropes. Here's what you need to know to buy your first rope. Each rope has been selected for a specific set of criteria (e. Use the terrain to your advantage whenever possible. 35 votes, 20 comments. I'm in Europe. So following the guidelines from Petzl and BD, we can't mix the two ropes. I own a couple of opera Beal 8. For climbing I use the north face route rocket 18 and it’s amazing. They are good ropes, they did go through a phase of being tangley, but I blame one specific partner not being able to coil a rope to save their life for that. For sport and bouldering I use a Patagonia Cragsmith 32L which is a fair bit less bulky but equally good. It would especial be great to know if they are dry treated and suitable for winter climbing. Mainly these things Redundancy in regards to rope cutting Clipping alternating strands to reduce rope drag on wandering pitches Increased rappell length Reduced weight per person Should I buy half ropes? If so, which diameter would be safe to buy? So far I am looking at the 8. However, depending on where you climb, using half ropes could be safer. 2mm (pro: Aramid sheath, cons: heavy, expensive) and petzl paso guide 7. Don't make this a first rope purchase without a specific reason. Half ropes used right can reduce this possibility. twin ropes or half ropes? Twin ropes are far more specialist, half ropes would probably be more useful. Yes, I am talking about the Solution Guide. Any leads would be appreciated! While single ropes are most suitable for indoor and sport climbing, they can also be the best choice for trad climbing. I was looking at the edelrid starling protect pro dry 8. Rogue 48 is great for trad, takes a full rack with double cams, extra layers, food, water, a pair of 50m half ropes, and quite comfortably. Needs 4 good size gear loops for trad rack. Climbing on existing, well established trad routes has gotten kinda Less exciting? I wouldn't say "boring" exactly. Aside from these bigger rock objectives I do a lot For trad climbing at crags (and ice climbing) I will use about 4, because they're less bulky, cheaper and easier to operate. I've occasionally used a single for short single pitch routes, but I've never met anyone using a single for a multipitch route. I think I remember a pictoral for it even. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. You'll probably Half ropes are used almost exclusively in the UK for trad climbing. We climbed on half ropes which was a bit of a pain but allowed us some margin in case we needed to bail. You won't be discerning enough to tell the difference between it and a tip top Petzl 8mm. If you can afford it I'd go with Tundra's suggestion. Have stuck to indoor climbing but have ventured out recently into trad. Feb 23, 2020 · Climbing ropes are designed to keep you safe in varying situations and environments. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Picking one of the above-mentioned options that best fit the scenario. The gear loops are tiny compared to my dead bird harness. It is triple rated so not just a half rope. I'm fine doing regular old trad routes. Climbing as a team of 3 and Rope Management on Weird Stances are both great ideas. Also, if you are climbing shortish straight routes then you can get away with quickdraws. Jun 20, 2025 · The differences between rock climbing ropes can quite literally mean life and death. Aug 1, 2024 · We break down key considerations related to climbing rope diameter, including best uses for various widths, rope handling, elongation, durability, and more. But then you’ll have to buy a single rated 60m+ when you get into trad climbing, or buy another half rope and use both. Apr 4, 2025 · We tested 13 climbing ropes from Sterling, Petzl, Edelrid, Mammut, and others to find the best options for you. No one rope was the best in every category For a beginner I would recommend getting the cheapest rope that's climbing rated you can find. It looks like half ropes are the way to go when getting into ice/alpine climbing correct? That's where I eventually want to be but for now my main uses would be glacier travel, getting trad experience, and beginner alpine climbing. Short story slightly longer, double ropes are for wandering trad, twin ropes are for Alpine, carry two thin 70m ropes and you get 140m of total length to rappel with. And I much prefer having a 70m to a 60m rope at the gunks. Looking for bimbles in the Lakes etc. See full list on ukclimbing. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. 1. I’ve used mine for tr-ing projects, ascending big walls in Zion and Yosemite, and repeated lead falls on both sport and trad climbs. Crack climbing in Squamish you barely need draws if your cams extend. If they are rated as HALF rope only, they are designed to limit the impact force during a fall, where ONE rope takes the brunt of the force. This article explains everything about climbing with two ropes. If BOTH ropes are taking an ~equal amount of force, UIAA has determined that the impact force is too high. 4-season alpine climbing rope for Alps: 60m or 70m? I'm in the market for my first twin/double rope that will be used for all of mine alpine adventures around central Europe. After lots of use and abuse on rock, ice, and at the gym, these came out on top. If you’re looking for someone to tell you there is no risk, you aren’t thinking about climbing in a way that will allow you to grow as a climber. I swapped leads for every other pitch the first time, the second time we lead in blocks In sport climbing you kinda know what you need on the ground. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. 5 (which seems to have replaced the Mammut Infinity, which appears to have been Any modern rope is going to give you a reasonable catch, especially if you're climbing in the gym or only sport climbing. 29 votes, 69 comments. Here are the results. With a lead-rope solo you can limb to a point where you can build a solid anchor and then assess further. Taking it slow, learning a lot. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. So the damage is accumulated on one spot of the rope where the sharp edge is. I live in an area where climbing (both sport and trad) is very popular so I usually just go at the store and buy stuff there but a friend suggested me I should look online to save some money and as a broke uni student that would be neat. Any recommendations would be highly appreciated! Obviously this guy bought the wrong rope for the intended application. FWIW I also use the edelrid swift protect pro as my primary trad single and sport climbing rope. For alpine climbing I will usually only bring alpine draws. It’s an excellent overall climbing rope first Just rack half a set of nuts on an oval biner and move on with your life. If you're trad climbing on marginal gear or taking huge whippers, you might care more about the impact force. 6 double rope) I belay my partner (with grigri, or other compatible with rope The opening paragraph where you talk about what trad climbing is and how to learn it is solid, but I would add in somewhere, perhaps in its own special section something about how when it comes to trad climbing you should be self-motivated, and self-reliant. Where will you be climbing? How long are the abseils? Some places require either half ropes, twin ropes, or a tagline. Alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies I used alpine draws almost exclusively as even with double ropes it could be hard to extend or make tricky placements work. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. it's dangerous. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. 2mm for half rope and the ATC can manage 8. These ropes should be unicore ropes to avoid sheath slippage when jugging. 12 votes, 17 comments. Sep 7, 2011 · In this review Toby Archer explores the versatile world of triple rated ropes, and reviews three alternatives from three of the biggest rope manufacturers. Wandering routes are usually dealt with by using longer runners on the protection. 10-11a range on gear, but we'll definitely start out lower than that to get a feel for the area before pushing it. Aug 1, 2023 · These are the three main types of climbing ropes. And yes we are scared of falling. If you are single pitch climbing, it's probably fine, but multipitch climbing with a full double rack, draws, anchor material, atc/grigri, and water bottle/packable jacket gets really tight without a lot of gear loop space. Unless you're climbing a straight vertical line or using a pair of half ropes, extensions are worth their weight in gold. If they’re truly necessary for a climb, I’m of the mind that an ultra thin, triple rated single and a half rope is the best strategy. The info I can give is that they are 60m, ~8. 8mm. The ability to link pitches and be able to do a 70m rap if the weather turns bad is extremely valuable. This really depends on the area you are climbing in, in the UK most people will use 50 or 60m half ropes for trad climbing (unless climbing on little outcrops where they might fold a 60 in half and tie into the middle when seconding or use short ropes). For self rescue, you don't always have to tie fancy knots. Using half ropes has many advantages in certain climbing situations. Having a full 60-70m rope for gym climbing is a pain in the ass IMO. You will use This type of rope for sport climbing, most trad climbing, and all top-rope climbing. More & more, I'm noticing big stretches of vertical rock that isn't in a guidebook or on Mountain The biggest factor in the difference between UK and US trad is that we use double ropes- obviously you can use a single rope for any trad route if you’re proficient at extending it and have enough long quickdraws though! Lots of Cornish climbing (and a tiny bit of Dorset stuff) is on tidal sea cliffs. Find a good Topo! There are several areas where you can get off route for sure. Cuts out more than a few raps. It's necessary to understand how climbing ropes work, the different types, lengths, treatments, and which ropes are best suited for particular climbing styles. 8-10. com I’ve used half ropes more often than singles for most of my climbing life, but at this point I almost consider them obsolete. If the rope manufacturer wanted this rope to hold both UIAA cert of twin and half, they would have made the ropes more "stretchy". In my large stuff sack of trad gear I carry lots of gear for "cragging" as I plan to set a few ropes on top rope in addition to leading routes with the gear that is not used for the top ropes. I tried my best to identify them but I can't. Hi all. Maybe it's the fact that on most walls there are established rappel lines with anchors at <30m intervals, so we don't usually need two ropes to descend? The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. For sport multipitch I’ve used a single when abs are short or half ropes. Hi anyone have a recommendation for a climbing harness for mountain trad use? Needs to be fairly packable and light for carrying (about 300-350g) but also reasonably comfortable for multi pitch use and hanging stances etc. Weighted ropes get cut really easily. , best beginner climbing rope, best budget climbing rope, best half rope, etc. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. The Reverso can handle 7. But, if time is truly of the essence to rescue my partner, I have no qualms about cutting the rope, leaving the rope portion of the anchor intact and using the vast majority of climbing rope that's left to effect the rescue. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. Half ropes provide an extra level of safety and are ideal for trad climbing or mountaineering. There's nothing inherently difficult about placing trad gear but it does take a while to get a feel for what works where. Alpine draws depend a lot on where you climb like all trad gear. g. Jan 29, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing ropes of 2025, including top dynamic ropes for cragging and multi-pitch climbing from Mammut, Edelrid, Sterling, and more. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Here's an example of an extension that you couldn't accomplish with a sport draw. 2mm petzl dragonfly, is this too Sep 7, 2023 · What are the key differences between single, half, and twin ropes? Teddy, a certified climbing guide, explains everything. 2 60 meter. Any route recommendations would be cool too. If you strictly want twins for bolted multipitch, and aren't interested in half rope technique for trad climbing, I'd say both of those are unnecessarily heavy and you'd be better off going for something in the sub-8mm range. If you intend to go regularly, and split your time across climbing & mountaineering, I'd consider buying more than one rope. I have been using pair a of dry treated tendon ambition 8. Background is mostly mountaineering but am getting more into trad climbing. This rope would be excellent for redpoint burns on your 45 meter enduro proj at Oliana or Kalymnos. Unfortunately looking on Amazon and such was a little confusing, as I found stuff from brands I know well very expensive (125€-200€ for a single half rope Howdy. It’s got the cut resistance of 10mm+. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally Oct 15, 2023 · Single ropes offer versatility and durability, making them suitable for a wide range of climbing scenarios. That's why i think it's best to use 2 strands of rope always. Jun 19, 2024 · Looking at getting a new pair of 60m half ropes for trad and Scottish winter. Finally if you are going to try carry on climbing to a point you could, with a higher risk margin, decide on lead-rope soloing. The minimum requirement for most climbing clubs is knowing how to belay. And the rope wont move like normal top roping when you advance. On a trad route onsight part of the fun is to discover what gear you need and managing the rope drag is part of the equation. Both times we climbed in parallel with two followers climbing at the same time on single ropes. Beal ropes (reportedly) have the stretchiest ropes and softest catch in the industry. I've swapped leads on two multipitch (6p & 10p) climbs as a party of 3 and could use some tips on efficiency and keeping the ropes from tangling. 5 x 60m for Trad and Scottish Winter (and even some sport, rarely) for something like the last 8 years. 48 votes, 50 comments. Best thing to do is sell it to someone that has a clue (I’ll give ya fiddy bucks for it) and buy a 9. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. Best thing you can do is regularly check your gear, not get complacent, and stay sharp out there. I was looking at different half ropes for various reasons in regards to trad routes. My partner and I could use either my 65m single rope or my set of 8. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 75kg per rope. I’ll admit I’ve used a single half rope to simul in easy terrain a bunch. It's also standard in some places in the world, and super useful if you're going to be leading with two followers. Twin ropes strike a balance between safety and simplicity, making them a great choice for alpine climbing or multi-pitch routes. Ropes also make a difference, if you are on half ropes then you can use less extension and more quickdraws as rope drag is less of an issue. 5mm and weigh 2. You can always use it to lead in a pinch if you get your rope hopelessly stuck and if you buy two of them then you can climb with doubles. Also, you generally want short (30-50m) & skinny ropes for mountaineering, because they save a lot of weight Climbing there for my first time next week, just wondering what the preferred method is for ropes. I'm looking at 2 ropes: The Mammut Crag Classic 9. Our experts extensively field-tested the best Climbing Ropes of the year and rated the best based on transparent, objective criteria. Firstly How do you retreat on a trad climb if you've climbed through half of your rope? tl;dr -- Is it possible to retreat if you lead climb past the halfway point in your rope? Learn how to find a climbing rope that's right for you, with information on types of ropes, diameter, length, features and safety ratings. Rope recommendation I am in the market for half/twin ropes. 4 days ago · Pros Great for any style of climbing: top rope, trad, sport, and gym climbing Stiff and supple, figure 8 follow dresses perfectly Feeds through belay devices and gear extremely well Cons Expensive Middle mark is tough to see Only available as a dry treated rope The best overall rock climbing rope we’ve tested is the Sterling Velocity 9 9. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. I mostly climb in the Northeast, predominantly trad, but with some sport occasionally. I'm looking at buying my first rope and the information on if dry treated is important or not is all over the place with regards to trad climbing so I thought I'd ask y'all. We trad climb with half ropes usually. Climbing at the Gunks in NY, USA I see most (90%?) trad climbers using a single rope. Bi-color is game changing for multiple rappels, pitches longer than 35m, and various unexpected situations (understand that's not something you do much of now). Not uber ambitious but would like to do objectives like the easier routes on Forbidden and Stuart next summer followed by their respective harder routes the following summer along with Goode NEB etc. Of course some alpine draws are necessary but he has those. . And have the descent dialed; it’s not too hard, but would suck to mess it up and be wandering around choss bands in the dark. I'm also just starting off building my trad rack -- just got a full set of cams/ropes/nuts/some other things and am looking to go to Powerlinez for my first time in a few weeks. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Grigri for sport, atc for trad and multipitch, I do almost all my trad with double ropes. Help with identifying these ropes I got these pair of Mammut half ropes 2nd hand but unused. Thanks! Apr 24, 2025 · We tied into 17 climbing ropes to find the best of the best. I often climb with a single rope because of weight, but I prefer to have the option of twin/half ropes because it feels more secure for redundancy and for gear placement. Would they be primarily for trad or for winter? What length of routes would they be for and what's your budget and country (availability and cost is a bit different between US and EU)? What ropes does he already have? Wondering what peoples thoughts are on some of the best climbing ropes? I would mainly be using it for gym climbing but I would like to go outside occasionally. Nov 14, 2022 · In compiling our list of the best climbing ropes on the market, we looked at user reviews across the internet, compiled data on average prices, and consulted with professionals in the guiding industry. Most beginner's at my gym use the maxim equinox because its the cheapest rope that the local MEC carries. If you ever decide to venture into trad climbing or multipitch, get two 70m half ropes and leave your 60m for sport only. 70 votes, 16 comments. That being said, u/hafilax brought up a good point that several super skinny half ropes are also twin rated. 2-9. 0 40m for two person rope teams, or 50/60m for 3 or 4 person rope teams. I'm not seeing much detail on traverses in the books I have, does anyone have a recommendation for a resource? I can't remember exactly what it is but there's a technique with half ropes, not the obvious 'use one on the traverse and let the other shortcut the traverse'. The home of Climbing on reddit. 5mm 60m ropes (pro: lightest triple rated, cons: heavier half/twin). Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • I am a relative beginer (7 months fairly solid). For multipitch trad, climbed free, two 8mm ropes are fine. Primary use would be long multi pitch climbing (both sport and trad) in summer and easier mixed/ice climbing in winter (think up to WI5+). 7 (pro: light, cons: too thin? can't find a ton of reviews). Looking to buy my first alpine trad rope and want some input. I usually climb in the 5. Half Ropes (more common) are meant to be clipped into alternating pieces of pro to reduce impact forces on gear and to minimize rope drag. I'm looking to spend under 200 dollars. I would go for a half rope. A single rope is a rope that can be used on its own for climbing and belaying. Can’t recommend it highly enough. 5mm halfs. A lot of variety here, interesting. However normal half ropes handle much better. I’m wondering why they don’t make thinner half ropes. tl;dr: Strive to alternate clip half ropes. It has a lot of attachment points, zippers that open half way and internally so you don’t drop stuff, and can be hauled with the straps tucked in. You don't need a lot of long (extendable) extensions when you use your half ropes appropriately. It's also true that it's not the most lightweight solution to use sport draws but no need to worry about that for the beginning. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. ). Jun 6, 2025 · We took to the whips to find the best climbing ropes for every type of climbing, with top picks from Sterling, Mammut, and Edelrid. My friend has a set of the triple rated half ropes and those are somehow more confidence inspiring. MooseJaw is having a killer sale on climbing equipment right now assuming you are in the states. Just tag the rope, half rope with 10mm ropes sounds like a pain to belay with at best and if you aren't used to climbing/belaying with doubles sounds like a sketch fest. Get a budget rope (no dry treatment, 10mm+) and split it with a friend, then get something nicer for outside. For big wall, a ~10mm dynamic line for leading and a static tag/haul line are the standard. Generally a single rope is all you need for the cascades. By the time you've worn out your first rope you'll know what you want your second rope to do. 1-11mm for half rope. Apr 19, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Depending on what you're doing, the Edelrid TC Eco Dry is arguably the best rope money can buy. Just a pure glacier rope? 8. Anyone got any other recommendations or thoughts on these before I hit 'buy'? Thanks. 0 and with a cheeky discount code can get them for £116 each. Leader had a belay on one rope and tagged the second rope. I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this… Gear failing does happen and yes people can die rock climbing due to some freak accident. Dec 29, 2020 · Personally I am also usually trad/adventure climbing when I used half ropes and thus not climbing at my sport limit, so I am much less likely to actually fall whilst high-clipping. Had my eye on the Mammut Alpine Dry 8. Figuring out the differences between twin ropes and half ropes is more challenging, but that’s where we come in! When doing backcountry Trad/Alpine summits, one of my biggest weight factors is rope. Another one that would be useful to new multipitch/alpine trad climbers is Simulclimbing. You do want a dry rope for mountaineering, but you'll wear away the dry coating much more quickly if you use it regularly for sport climbing & trad, on rock. Might just be because his have beal’s unicore stuff going on. Personally I have made the decision to never do a alpine multipitch on anything less then two 70m half ropes. The 2 biggest things to keep in mind are that thin ropes cut more easily on edges, and half/twin ropes stretch much more, which can result in decking on a ledge from some falls. Start early. eatt tmfonf vdvu tzusz rbutfsm daaeg ege zjniv tbc pmhle

26th Apr 2024