Hangboarding for hypertrophy. I agree with Steve Maisch that max hangs seem to be better for strength recruitment (neurological adaptations) but not hypertrophy and not necessarily overall strength. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). They're usually used to improve grip strength or finger strength, but what does the science s I would guess it's a decent exercise for forearm hypertrophy which can be beneficial to long term strength (so you would want to do this at the start of your periodization). Because climbing is a skill sport versus a strength sport, many people can achieve high levels (5. Jan 11, 2024 · There are lots of different ways to boost your strength-endurance, and each method comes with its own pros and cons. What is the proper arm, shoulder, and torso positioning for safe and effective hangboarding? No matter the fingerboard protocol you choose, it’s essential to train with good technique! Maintain muscular tension throughout your shoulders and upper torso by engaging your scapular stabilizers and rotator cuff—think "shoulders down, chest out". I think a good cycle is to do repeaters on your shoulders seasons (exiting and entering), a large volume of hypertrophy work which is NOT hangboarding in your off season and focus on max hangs during your season. Hangboard training 101 Whether you’re trying to send your first 5. Why are you hangboarding after bouldering? Hangboarding should be the main focus, with bouldering second. I'd guess most intermediate climbers should completely avoid it, including while climbing. Jun 29, 2021 · The strong effects on combined muscle activation indicate a preferential muscular hypertrophy in small flexors, especially in combination. Hangboards are everywhere in rock climbing and bouldering gyms. com May 15, 2023 · Hangboarding involves an isometric contraction of all sorts of muscles, most notably the finger flexor muscles in our forearms. It seems like that method is common when people discuss hypertrophy, but after some research there seems to be a mixed opinion on it. I've done many 6/10 cycles and my forearms don't seem to measure any larger from those at least. The aim of this study was to quantify and compare the effects of different training Hangboarding: Recruitment and hypertrophy, most controlled loading Campusing: Recruitment, contact strength, pulling power of the arms, extreme loading, Moonboard: Recruitment, body tension, pulling power, contact strength, in between campus and hangboard for loading. It begins with a little talk on the utility of one arm hangs (sport specificity, time constraints, measurability) but it quickly gives way to a discussion on the specifics of isometrics and small muscle hypertrophy. I have done also max hangs and repeaters in the past, but hasn't really seen the results to be as great as I'd wanted. I thought it would take a while… Tyler Nelson on hangboarding at home. Someone like myself, who is naturally a noodle, might also benefit from some forearm hypertrophy too and I don't think just doing repeaters would be quite as effective as finger curls. Isometrics aren't the greatest for hypertrophy anyway (?), but if you throw out that climbing specificity and try for size, the programs here for instance give you some interesting hang times. The repeaters volume looks similar to what you would see is effective for most hypertrophy repetition ranges volume. Sep 12, 2023 · Intensity: Hangboarding is intended to improve a climber’s strength by stimulating positive adaptations in neural, muscular, and connective tissues. In addition, however you mount your board, be sure that it cannot move in any . What youre saying makes sense to me if youre doing density hangs at 50-80% max and have had many years experience both climbing and hangboarding. There I explained why I chose that name over Repeaters and presented the INTRODUCTION to the first of my studies that compared this method to others, focusing on their effect on finger strength and endurance. Warning All Training Board Users: Training on a hangboard carries risk of injury to fingers, arms, shoulders and the joints connecting them. Started adding in some minimal hang boarding, prior to Jul 5, 2018 · climbinb, training, hangboard, fingerboard, hangboarding, finger strength, climbing coach, evidence-based, science-based, education, athletic training Aug 28, 2022 · Everything you need to know about hangboarding, beginner-advanced. 4 to 6 weeks is the golden zone and a lot of the literature supports that, but up to 8 weeks is okay for hypertrophy imo. Prioritize proper form and acquaint yourself with the sensation of hanging on the board. That said real climb is better if it is an option for you if you can get access because climbing is such a skill sport and some relatively weak people can climb some of the highest grades with incredible Aug 30, 2012 · I’m a strong proponent of hangboarding for increasing finger strength for rock climbing. 13. I tested my max Nay. Remember, even under the best of circumstances, injuries can occur. Strength = neurological adaptations X hypertrophy (muscle cross sectional area) Both neurological adaptation and hypertrophy can both be developed to a high degree. If your fingers or elbows become sore, take a week off, reevaluate your deadhang form, and ease back into your next training session. Good question would be though: do you need hangboarding? Is fingerstrength a weakness currently? Feb 28, 2022 · Learn how Dr. To round things back out with the PCP and Steve Masich. Hey dudeskis, My new apartment doesn’t have space for a hangboard, so I’m planning on getting a “the block” from tension climbing or a gripster. The physiological explanation for this rise in grip endurance, or more specifically in the ability to maintain a high level of strength in the IntHangs group, can reside in: enhanced glycogen and phosphagen storage (Bertuzzi et al. My blueprint would be staying between hypertrophy and max (like 8x 10s /2 min) for 8 weeks, then dipping into true max (7s) for 4 weeks, restart. Take every precaution to avoid damage to yourself; warm-up, stretch, don't overtrain and listen to your body. Mar 25, 2013 · frankstoneline wrote: maximum force for 10 seconds for hypertrophy type training (either small edges or large weights or some combination)with lots of rest between reps , and generally repeater type workouts seem to fall more in the recruitment camp (higher reps, lower forces) This is backwards. Both are good for strength, either way. Apr 24, 2020 · Hangboarding is one of those training tools that is extremely effective, but it is tricky to get right in terms of intensity, frequency, and balance with other forms of training and climbing. T. I. So do you need hypertrophy training? It depends on what constitutes hypertrophy training, but in general strength training is going to give you all the hypertrophy you need. after a bouldering session? My opinion is that you should boulder before hangboarding because hangboarding allows you to be very precise about the amount of time / duration / intensity. These aren't Ryan's exact words, but it basically said, "Hey, idiot. Ok, I finally got The Rock Climber's Training Manual and read through most of it. 12<) without hangboarding. It's likely that any short term gains are more related to getting used to the specific exercise. , 2007); increased maximum strength, probably via hypertrophy as a result of the use of submaximal loads and How to hangboard for strength? What grips and edge size? How long should you hang? One arm or two? You need to know the answers to these questions and we've Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Hey, i was just browsing around the internet the other day and saw a few theories on how the rep/rest/hang ratios all work. Oct 7, 2022 · Fingerboarding for strength gainsMax hangs can be split into shorter hangs (5-12 seconds) or longer hangs of around 20 seconds. What is Hangboarding? Hangboarding involves using a specialized training device called a hangboard or fingerboard. Background: I've been climbing twice a week since 2019 - now around v4-v6 (overhang v slab) indoors. Interestingly, both high resistance (with few repetitions) and low resistance (with high repetitions) training did improve climbers’ strength in a 10-week training program by Hermans et al. I’m not a sports scientist but where in any other hypertrophy protocol for any other muscle is a 20 second isometric hold used to stimulate hypertrophy? Or does it make more sense that the forearms, like any other muscle, are going to respond to a hypertrophy protocol that looks more like 8-12 reps at 60-80% of max effort per rep. This is a slow process (happening over the course of years), so hypertrophic gains shouldn't come after 2 weeks. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best calnick0 • Chalk while hangboarding? Is there any benefit to chalking up while hangboarding if I'm just trying to build finger strength? I compete in ninja warrior and some competitions don't allow chalk so I'm considering cutting it out of hangboarding sessions to mimic competition settings. Learn the basics of how to start hangboarding. I have been hangboarding for a little bit, mostly for half crimp grip (7s on 3s off for 10 reps, etc. Jan 1, 2021 · Before choosing a training methodology and periodization for hangboarding some individual characteristics need to be judged, like training experience, age, past injuries, ma Jun 28, 2013 · After completing several hypertrophy hangboard phases and in the midst of one currently, I am wondering if "finishing each set to failure" is actually effective. Feb 11, 2022 · Neil Gresham - elite rock climber and one of Britain's most experienced climbing coaches - shares his best tips for getting starting with hangboarding. Long Max Hangs are intended to increase muscle size (hypertrophy) and strength in the forearm. Repeaters seem to be superior to max hangs for overall strength and hypertrophy when comparing those protocols in isolation. Strength = neurological adaptations * muscle cross sectional area (hypertrophy) Hypertrophy is predicated on: Maximal tension Muscle damage Metabolic stress My thoughts before starting were that since the strength equation is basically neurological adaptations * muscle cross The strong effects on combined muscle activation indicate a preferential muscular hypertrophy in small flexors, especially in combination. For basic inst… Aug 9, 2023 · Finger Strength : No-Hanging vs Hangboarding. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. You're much better doing other supplemental work, like hangboarding, like campus boarding, like various core exercises, like ring work, like H. I actually think hangboarding is safer than just climbing even for new climbers because the loads are very controlled unlike real climbing. Jul 5, 2018 · The decision must take into account if we want to promote intensity (using smaller/more challenging holds -in case you are training sloper strength or heavier weights), adjusting volume and pauses in order to sustain the high load along the workout, seeking hypertrophy and high-intensity endurance; or instead we might focus on volume, which Yea, I'm talking about switching between endurance, hypertrophy, strength, and power. there seems to be a few theories around right now: hang 10 seconds, rest 5s, X8-10 reps, 2 minute break hang 8-12 seconds, rest 1 min, 4 reps, 5 minute break pyramid building with the first (i. The authors seem a little Jul 9, 2025 · Hangboarding is a popular training method among climbers looking to build finger strength, improve grip endurance, and enhance overall climbing performance. Nov 19, 2024 · Background Climbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. Its a lot more similar to a typical gym hypertrophy stimulus because it's a concentric/eccentric exercise. But the volume argument of repeaters stimulating more hypertrophy and less neural adaptations is always in the room. The Assisted 15mm Edge One Armers drove me into a quite stubborn Plateau. That seems like a useful form of training because it seems like a solid stretch and the stretch seems to be a very potent stimulus for growth My forearm is a bit of a priority. I believe I might be going about grip training in the wrong manner. Apr 21, 2020 · You can train hypertrophy by doing lower intensity work for a longer period of time, which is exactly what density hangs do. This particular work was presented at the III International Rock Congress set up by the IRCRA that took Does r/climbharder have a preference between hangboarding before vs. e. FWIW, Some studies show that increasing sets is the most effective way to trigger muscle growth. On one side I read people saying "go 100% and go until failure" or that the training should always Yves gravelle has luck with it. For people who are newer to hangboarding, would it be better to do max hangs or repeaters starting off? EDIT: Sorry. Jun 10, 2020 · Everyone can learn how to start hangboarding. a lot. Instead of just few days off, lay off for a week or more and then start again from a lower weight. While thinking all of this it occurred to me that there should be one excercise which would make your recruitment strong Oct 5, 2022 · A climbing coach shares a beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training plan along with some crucial tips for how to avoid injury. forgot to mention, no-hang with pinch blocks. Hangboarding Faq - How Do I Progress on the Hangboard? If you're stuck for three weeks at the same weight for any grip type, it's time to take a break from the hangboard. It might make sense to include some heavy finger rolls (which you can do with dumbbells if you have heavy enough weight) to induce hypertrophy in these muscles. I saw a videon with Magnus where he showed how he trained, and it was a lot of crimping. diff being you can start with less than bw. Jul 23, 2014 · Since you're into the rock prodigy method, check out the Anderson Bros newer information. However this prolonged training stimulus will inevitably produce some hypertrophy which will further increase your neural gains over time. The last paragraph was very interesting. outsideonline. But if youre only going 15-30% as a warmup or on rest days, I dont think what youre purporting is necessarily true. Mar 17, 2025 · Hypertrophy training: The Complete Guide (plus workouts) Hypertrophy development is valuable as increased muscle mass is beneficial to athletic performance and a necessity for many sports. From personal experience, I think you're right about max hangs being enough stimulus fir hypertrophy. How much this applies to the wall is a different story altogether though. The downsides here would be that the overall load may become too high and result in injury if you're not being careful. So that might be the best way to increase stimulus as you Not to downplay hypertrophy training and we could all use larger grip squeezers, but just some devil's advocate here to stir the pot. Therefore you are less likely to get injured. The truth is, if you want strong, healthy fingers that stay strong and healthy, that isn’t going to happen if you follow a random hangboard protocol that lasts X weeks long and then stop doing Jul 9, 2025 · Conclusion Creative hangboarding exercises can transform your grip training from mundane repetitions into an engaging and effective routine that builds powerful tendons, muscles, and joints essential for climbing success and overall hand strength. Hard bouldering with finger-intensive holds basically does the same thing as repeaters. Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. So I adapted, and changed my approach to Hangboard Training accordingly. Since all his metrics were max strength it would be interesting to have a pro powerlifter try light squatting every day and see what happens as a comparison. The current consensus is that repeaters are better than max hangs for strength due to the hypertrophy gained from repeaters. This way you're targeting general hypertrophy, but still getting your hangboarding in. Plus, new hangboard workouts & the best hangboard workouts for beginners. In the rockprodigy program the Hangboard is used for 'Hypertrophy' - meaning increasing the mass of your forearm muscle. These bonds grow when you hang for long periods of time—at least 30 seconds. One way to program is to go relatively high rep and perform them after a hangboard routine. Climbers kinda need strong fingers. , like bouldering (if you're a route climber), like many other tools, rather than squeezing a grip. The latter lead to slower but potentially longer Dec 18, 2013 · As promised, here is some hangboard resistance data from my recently concluded Strength Phase. Start gently to avoid injuries like pulley tendon strains, a common issue for the overenthusiastic. I'm preparing for a bouldering trip and just started a hangboarding phase. I’ve tried many different methods, and IME, hangboarding is the most effective. Beginners ususally experience rapid improvement just by climbing. To hang—or not to hang—is a question of timing, in both the Aug 5, 2011 · Articles Strength Power Aug 5 Written By Kris Hampton Yesterday I posted Part 1 on "Hypertrophy for Climbing", and these were the two comments made within hours of the post: If you’re looking for structural adaptations in the form of muscle growth you probably want more volume than 7/53 protocol. Mar 1, 2022 · Hangboarding puts a lot of stress on small muscles and tendons—that’s the point—and this requires that you listen to your body as you progress through the workouts. But generally speaking, yes, the full crimp is really bad for you if you aren't conditioned for it. Power endurance more broadly is the ability to pull hard, deadpoint, and throw to holds continuously. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of 10 weeks of hangboard training (HBT) on climbing-specific maximal strength, explosive strength, and muscular endurance. ). Dec 6, 2022 · In general, the volume for max hangs is insufficient to generate good amounts of muscular hypertrophy even though it definitely challenges recruitment substantially like most strength work. Everybody knows this. I also got a DXA scan before and after my diet too, to track how much fat/lean mass I lost on a carb-cycling diet. Repeaters do a good job at representing the repetitions you might do doing say, pull-ups. For beginners, starting a hangboarding routine can be intimidating due to the complexity of the holds and the risk of injury if done incorrectly. of course you can introduce negative weight for hanging, but that's extra steps. 6/6 or 7/13 repeaters with 6-10 reps per set at 60-80% MVC would put you in a good zone for triggering hypertrophy. Here we get a really solid cited quote re: isometric joint angles: A volume and intensity weekly periodization, based on re-search [12][13] is suggested in Table 2 and Table 3. Tyler Nelson's Density Hangs long-duration isometrics can help you improve the quality of your tendons and climbing! Steven Low (Author of Overcoming Gravity and is also a decently accomplished climber) has an article about forearm hypertrophy and wrist conditioning relating to climbing strength. If you can’t finish a set, end the workout. Strength training programs that train high-repetitions and low-weight or high-weight / low-repetitions have both been found to stimulate hypertrophy over a period of 6 weeks, however strength gains were Aug 22, 2022 · Ok, first things first: any climber who wants to climb as hard as their genetic potential will allow needs to hangboard at some point. When I first started hangboarding, I had just sent my first 5. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol (“Abrahangs”), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength I posted a video of these powerlifters who said the science backed that volume is all that matters for hypertrophy which is the best way to get stronger - by increasing cross sectional area of muscle. This develops fitness while developing climbing skills, and most people find it more fun than hangboarding (aka the purpose of climbing). May 7, 2024 · A different ROM and position would likely alleviate that. Is it okay to dedicate one session a week for hypertrophy and the other for recruitment? Or am I better off doing a few weeks of purely one kind of hangboarding and then the other? If so - which kind is better to start with for the first few weeks? Oct 7, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Example of hangboarding training plans for climbers with lower through high-level in finger strength. I weigh about 180 and the bulk of my Hangboarding is good because it definitely stresses your wrist in a light, controllable way so that it can get used to the feel of climbing. This was my first full phase using the Rock Prodigy Training Center. Grips to promote hypertrophy will not do that, nor will they help with power, or power endurance. And a few advocates of max hangs have switched over to repeaters for this reason. Tendon density increases when there are stronger chemical bonds between your tendon fibers. When designed correctly, bouldering Im a fan of climbing stuff but not a rock climber. Jul 6, 2023 · I’ve heard many people talk about various ways to get strong fingers: a finger strength training phase, an 8-week hangboard cycle, following some person on the internet’s training routine, etc. In total, 35 intermediate- to advanced-level climbers (8 women and 27 Aug 17, 2012 · A year or so ago, shortly after a post concerning hypertrophy, I received a nicely written blunt message from my friend Ryan Palo. Im more focused on bodybuilding. Wondering if anyone has transferred from hangboarding to using one of these and if they have any suggestions for determining what weights I should get so I don’t end up wasting a ton of dough. 4-6-8-10-8-6-4) hang 5 seconds, rest 10 seconds, 2 min break after 'can't Current programming: change the reps and sets from 3-6 reps in strength, 1-3 sets for STRENGTH and 8-12 reps, 3-5 sets for HYPERTROPHY. Forearm Exp Jan 26, 2024 · Read our No-Hang routine review. Thats totally fine because (if we follow generic sports science hypertrophy will bring more long term gains). So to clarify it even more; if you keep on hangboarding for a long period of time and avoid accommodation by varying the stimulus you will keep progressing by way of (mainly) neural adaptations. Short max hangs tend to train neuromuscular development, meaning you are training the muscles to recruit more muscle fibers. 12 or crush V7, hangboarding can help you take your grip strength to the next level. Hangboarding is a skill and if someone is on and off it then there are some gains to be maxed out there. Aug 24, 2023 · Hangboarding targets small muscles and tendons differently than a typical gym workout, and benefits develop over time, requiring persistence and patience. " I Mar 14, 2018 · The previous entry was a first look at the Intermittent dead-hangs training method. If you only kept it in a brace for 2 months, I'd be concerned about reoccurring injuries. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. Goldilocks problem). For tendon density or muscle hypertrophy, consider extending the time under tension to 80 to 150 seconds per set and incorporating longer holds to reduce intensity. It's safer to hangboard with the full crimp than to habitually climb with it, simply because hangboarding is much more controlled. Tendons don't really stretch much and actually get stiffer with training for more force production. Sure a few studies and methods that have been used with success, but it’s a combo of sport specificity, ligament, tendon, muscular, and neural adaptations. Climbing-specific training programs on hangboards are often based on dead-hang repetitions, but little is known about the real intensity applied during such effort. Repeaters are definitely not “for endurance”. My See full list on climbing. You might not be resting enough for I too went through a phase of strict hangboarding + weight loss back in 2017, and my numbers (both bodyweight and finger strength) are quite similar to yours. Hypertrophy (increased size of skeletal muscle cells) typically occurs within one to two months of performing a strength training program 10. Hangboard hypertrophy is mostly limited to repeaters (?) but 7/3 and 5/5 were both chosen because they mimic climbing durations (?). Under the right conditions, that isometric contraction can cause our muscles to adapt by increasing in sizeaka, hypertrophy. May 23, 2018 · Your hangboarding workout in this context requires the optimal combination of mechanical tension and metabolic stress (Schoenfeld, 2016), so I recommend pauses between sets longer than 1 minute to maintain the intensity (edge size or added weight) reasonably stable throughout the session. It is the training tool you will use the most. It’s essential to monitor your symptoms and adapt your program accordingly, avoiding overloading the affected area. by Olivier · Published 9 August 2023 · Updated 30 June 2023 In climbing, the most common tools for developing finger strength or endurance (referred to as “grip” by Ninja Warrior enthusiasts) are the fingerboard, Güllich board, or Kilterboards. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. My point is that if you are just doing max hangs for recruitment, then moving on to campusing after, it may be that you are having 2 phases of recruitment then (hangboarding and campusing) which would be less effective then hypertrophy then recruitment (repeaters then campusing). Sep 26, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I plan to start an entry level hangboard routine, and as a beginning my plan is to start with 2 sessions a week. Strength-endurance is often grouped in with power endurance, but it specifically characterizes the ability to grip hard over and over again. What's an example of a simple hang board routine (< 10-15 mins, supports progressive difficulty, no periodisation) that is a good warm-up before climbing? Everything I try ends up being too hard or too easy (i. Has anyone here played around much with the number of reps/hang time/rest time used during a hangboarding session? I'm wondering whether there are specific choices for timing that are better for bouldering/power. This program focuses mostly on ligaments and tendons but there are likely other downstream effects. Perhaps a lower volume, moderate density style repeater everyday could be effective (say 3 sets everyday rather than 6 sets every other day). Neural adaptation occurs early in a new training program and is primarily responsible for any short-term improvements seen. 13 which at the time felt like the absolute limit of my… Jul 9, 2025 · This article explores the benefits of hangboarding specifically for enhancing rock climbing endurance, explaining how it works, why it’s important, and how to incorporate it safely into your training regimen. Hypertrophy training of the muscles during the offseason seems to me like the better mechanic for long term improvement. Apr 7, 2024 · Tired of Max-Hangs and Repeaters fingerboard drills? Revamp your finger strength training with the novel Arm-Lifting protocols! First, hangboarding doesn’t have much knowledge around it. Apr 9, 2018 · My thoughts before starting Eric Horst’s article with them suggested that these helped with increases in hypertrophy. Holy grail of hangboarding Guys, I think I found it! I was just going on with my routine doing the No-hangs protocol from Emil Abrahamson's recent video. Details may vary depending on training age. So repeaters with added weight and max hangs are going to do it anyway. Finger strength is, perhaps, the only aspect of climbing fitness better trained off the wall rather than on, and yet this doesn’t mean that hangboarding will always be good for your climbing. And what does your skin think about it? Stop being a jackass. I’m taller and a bit heavier than most climbers at 6’4” and 195lbs, so have identified finger strength to weight as a weakness (one of many to work on). ypcjk baf aovii das qwrrkip rafg itcxf zxll lwhrrdg fgapr