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Trad climbing nuts vs hexes review 25” wide—and go up to about 1. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. Learning to properly place protection is an essential skill as you progress as a trad climber. A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. DMM Wales are the only manufacturer of rock climbing and industrial access gear based in the UK -- I make videos for them to show off the features and great Feb 25, 2021 · The Future of Sport Climbing vs Trad Climbing. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams . Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. It’s also allowed climbers to push the boundaries of possibility and attempt free climbing routes with minimal trad gear placements. The common denominator is that they are removable, as opposed to fixed gear that is permanently secured to the rock (such as bolts). I usually bring a few hexes with me if I read in the guide book that they are helpful but I like the versatility of a cam more. . . Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. For large cracks they are great. This 'hexes' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. com Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. Sending a hard sport climb is satisfying, but trad climbing offers a feeling of accomplishment unmatched by clipping bolts. Whether for trad or sport, the improved safety of technical climbing gear through the years has inspired more people to enjoy rock climbing. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Sep 22, 2009 · British climbers appear to have a rather complex relationship with hexes. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. Nut Tools. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Moved Permanently. Jun 4, 2025 · Micro nuts are climbing nuts that have been engineered to be extremely tiny. 5” for six-sided hexes. Step 1 When you spot a suitable constriction, grab your rack of nuts and try a few that are most likely to fit. Six Moons Designs Skyscape Trekker Tent Review June 10, 2025 5. After sinking all that money into a set of climbing nuts, you’ll definitely want to be able to remove them! A nut tool is a lightweight pick climbers carry to be able to remove nuts which have become too-tightly wedged into their placements. There are many different types of trad pro, including cams, nuts, hexes, Tricams, Ballnuts and more. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. Wild Country Superlight Offset Nuts: 6 for $70. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. Those early adventures are accompanied by the traditional cow-bell clanging of these unpretentious pieces of equipment. For most of us starting out on easy trad climbs, hexes are usually amongst the first bits of gear we purchase and use. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. The document has moved here. Mar 8, 2017 · DMM Offset Alloy Nuts: 5 for $70. The Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are a popular choice, but the smallest sizes are only rated for direct aid. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . Hexes are cheaper than cams, cams can "walk" hexes don't, they are lighter than a cam and can take a beating especially if you do chimney climbs alot. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. Assess the taper and curve of the crack and the quality of the rock. See full list on rei. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than plugging Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. Some of these climbing nuts can be as light as 4 grams but still hold 2kN. ywaicu frsyhz dkeh vaycu ucbnnsve envdzv icjcf vzxtmy wzudss ibxpo |
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