Climbing cams. Aug 12, 2024 · Free Climbing.
Climbing cams Ultralight TCUs have an optimized cam angle for greater holding power and wider cam faces for more grip. It almost singlehandedly ushered in the modern free-climbing era, making it much safer to try the parallel-sided splitter cracks that had heretofore been all but unprotectable using nuts and Hexes. May 8, 2015 · For those wishing to use it trad climbing, this is the perfect cam for marginal/insecure placements and a joy to use and place. 10% lighter yet just as durable as before, the updated Black Diamond Camalot C4 cam features a modern design that improves on tried-and-true Camalots with an optimized strength-to-weight ratio. Mar 13, 2018 · Climber’s Best Friend | The first camming device ever made for trad climbing newly redesigned for the modern vertical world. (Check out our Best Climbing Cams Review for a complete breakdown of the cams we tested). Shop climbing protection. CAMS-A Technical Review (Article circa 1985) by John Middendorf . I own doubles of blacks and blues and within a year of use all 4 cams have started to have frayed load bearing wires. 4. Learn about cam size, maintenance and comparison charts. When you release the trigger, the cam lobes expand to fit the rock. Offset cams mean that the lobes are different sizes - they are offset from eachother. $6 Single loop 4. Compare the features, pros, cons, and prices of seven different cam models from top brands. Cams. May 27, 2020 · The cam is a wonderful invention. In these environments, the Dragons are meant to inspire confidence with the “ TripleGrip ” cam lobes. The Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the originals. From these details, you can find the best equipment to fit your personal climbing needs and weigh the pros and cons of similar climbing cams. For those looking for a cheaper cam, or a more modern single axle cam, these are a good choice. Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. Feb 25, 2015 · Cams are some of the most interesting, useful and well-engineered pieces of climbing gear made. Ever since Jardine invented the first fully functional unit (with the proper camming angle) to the climbing community with his introduction of Friends, climbing achievement standards have advanced considerably through the use of superior technology. One other piece of good news for those wishing to get a long life out of their Totem, you will be glad to hear they operate a repair service . Trad Climbing Gear > Cams This article about climbing cams is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics . “I have cams May 24, 2020 · The softer metal detracts from the durability of these cams but gives us some added confidence as these cams seem to bite into the rock and hold under weird bodyweight placements. Camalot C4. Learn how to properly place cams with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. While this doesn’t pose a safety issue, it will make the cam harder to use in the future and thus a good candidate for retirement Sep 5, 2016 · 4. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Wild Country Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing #1 Top Rated. Offset cams are particularly helpful when climbing alpine but can be used almost anywhere. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. The Master Cam is a flexible, single-stem unit with an optimized cam angle for increased holding power. Range 0. Climbing Cams. Black Diamond. Cam Stop. Their flexibility makes them an excellent piece for pockets and pin scars. 6 sizes: #00 - 4; Sold individually or as sets (#1 - 4 Free Set) or (#00 - 4) Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. 34" to 1. Sea-cliff climbing presents an added challenge to keeping your cams working smoothly. Learn how to choose the best cams for your trad rack based on size, weight, price, and performance. Wild Country® UK Best Deals on Climbing Cams & Friends Material Selection for your protection while climbing - FREE Delivery options!. Apr 4, 2025 · The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are tough enough to stand up to the abuse of aid climbing, but they lack thumb loops and our testers unanimously agree that cams with thumb loops like the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights, Z4s, and the Wild Country Friends are better for aid climbing. It consists of two, three, or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. Outdoorplay has climbing pro covered. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. In comparison to nuts and pitons, cams "actively" hold their position in the rock. They do not sling cams janky looking cams (the official rule is 10+ years old but that’s more of a guideline). Camalot™ C4 Apr 26, 2025 · Nicest cams to use out there and feel very solid even in wierd uneven placements. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. Feb 12, 2024 · Steve Levin, in Climbing No. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. The high-strength aluminum alloy used in cam lobes is very susceptible to salt water corrosion. Today, our climbing protection is still the trusted industry standard – and we’re still just as committed to innovation. It was a glowing review as the Totems really are an impressive bit of kit which perform excellently whilst providing something distinctly different to the current homogenous line-up of the mainstream cams - better than a conventional cam both in terms of increased holding power and decreased head width. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. The Totem Cam offers an extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. HB Flexi-fix, Omega Link Cams, Metolius Master Cams; Ultralite Master Cam - $10. Exclusive design which features everything you require of a cam for all-around use with extended capabilities. Jun 15, 2020 · The new RigidFlex stem design also aids in these cam's efficacy while free climbing. They call it the Range Finder system. Cams are reliable and versatile pieces of trad protection that are designed to be placed in parallel sided cracks, where nuts won't work. From decreasing weight to improving ergonomics, we’re always finding ways to elevate our protection. Supercams have asymmetric cam lobes giving them almost twice the range of conventional cams used for crack climbing. Without a doubt, cams have revolutionized climbing. Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. Strength: 14kn (all sizes) 10kn (placed passively) Weight: size 0 = 84g / size 4 = 221g. According to users, the cam is popular for its direct-bias loading function that enables all lobes to proportionally share the weight - a function that apparently works impressively in real-life climbing conditions. Technology that is pushing the clean climbing limits. Cams are devices with retractable cam lobes that, under the tension of a spring, can be wedged or placed inside cracks of rock; when the camming unit is weighted, the cam lobes apply an outward force against the rock that secures the unit from Nov 9, 2020 · The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. Jan 30, 2018 · These cams were developed where the climbing ethic is staunchly traditional, and natural protection is needed for slick slate quarries and sea cliffs. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. The only way to break a cam stop is to fall and expand the head past the stops, inverting the lobes (aka umbrella’ing the cam). Add Cams. In an interview for Climbing No. Climbing Cams Climbing cams are essential for your trad climbing rack - check out our full range of cams to create your ideal rack. 121. The axle is attached to a stem with a trigger and trigger wires which retract the cam lobes when pulled for placement in a crack or pocket. 5. Original 13. Now 10% lighter, the redesigned Camalot C4 has eclipsed our classic, cornerstone cams, and features a more modern design with new touch-points like a wider trigger for easier handling, and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5 and #6. As with many single axle designs, they feel a little 'old-school'. The Alien Revolution excel on granite, whether you're aid or free climbing. These devices consist of a number of different cams that all pull together on one axle to lock in place on the rockface, thereby ensuring that the climber will be supported at all times should they lose their grip on the wall or rock for any reason. The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. That said, usually a climbing cam with a flexible stem and narrow head will work in a Tricam placement. Cams typically feature three or four curved pieces of aluminum, called cam lobes. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. 75° Camming Angle | Proven performance places and cleans quickly and efficiently. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. 5 days ago · Compare the features, pros, and cons of seven different climbing cams from Black Diamond, Wild Country, and Metolius. Falls were taken. Feb 7, 2010 · This is the lightest cam we tested and maybe the lightest camming device currently made. On the upside they hold well, feel extremely solid, are easy to place and are very durable. The invention of the spring loaded camming device (commonly called simply "cams") in the 1970's revolutionized the climbing world. Apr 16, 2010 · I don't consider them mandatory for any Yosemite or sandstone routes, but climbers in more pocketed areas often swear by them. Offset cams are made for irregular crack widths. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. The Dragonflies are awesome for free climbing. Recent innovations such as reverse cam strength (that means the device will still hold a fall even when the cams are fully open - provided that is that they actually catch on the rock in some way!) are useful, and dyneema slings, forged cams and other advances have made "Cams" a lot lighter than the earlier models, whilst reductions in scale Dec 19, 2019 · Cams are essential equipment for modern traditional climbing. 4. While the DMM Dragonfly cams are very small, flexible Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. CE and UIAA certified - Made in Bend, Oregon. 95 Mar 1, 2023 · The climbing cam’s strength is also essential in looking for a climbing cam. Finding the best climbing cam is a process, but below are a few of the highest rated cams available. Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. Unfortunately the durability of smaller pieces (black and blue) seems rather poor. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. 5 May 9, 2024 · Let’s dive into the goings-on about one of the most talked-about climbing cams in the market today: The Totem Cam. This chart provides a straightforward, easy to interpret size comparison, to help you compare cam models against one another in terms of sizing and Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. They stick to the exact same color scheme as Black Diamond cams, which is likely the most familiar cam color scheme in the world, so not only do they mesh seamlessly with those cams, but don't require learning a new scheme. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. For large cams, it should be from 10 to 14 kilonewtons, while the smaller cams should have the lower ratings. My Rack. 51 (1978), wondered whether Friends’ use should lower a climb’s technical grade, and whether it would be poor style to repeat a climb originally protected with chocks while using cams. Worldwide shipping. 11/16 Nylon Webbing and 14mm Spectra® Webbing is available (they do not carry 12mm Dyneema). To see how it stacks up versus the competition, check out our review of climbing cams. Before sea-cliff climbing, make sure your cams are well lubricated. Nov 11, 2021 · In this case, return the cam to the manufacturer for inspection and repair. Read More Climbing cams are essential for your trad climbing rack - check out our full range of cams to There's also some weird cams like Metolius super cams, and the recently discontinued Omega Pacific Link cams, really big cams from valley giant, Merlin, and recently BD, and a whole slew of pretty generic cams from trango, camp, etc. The ability to quickly and safely protect parallel-sided cracks opened up the world of traditional climbing to whole new realms. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. A rigid stem is preferable when placing and removing cams, because it transfers the movement of your hand into the camming head, making it easy to wiggle in or out. If you carry a double set of cams, the weight savings is the same as a twelve ounce canned beverage of your choice. In Depth Guide for the Top 5 Climbing Cams Black Diamond Camalot C4 Cam Sep 29, 2023 · Rock climbing cams, or Spring-Loaded Camming Devices, consist of four spring-loaded cam lobes which pivot on an axle. Totem Cam store. We also have an extensive range of small and micro cams in kits or singles for Wild Country Zero Friends, Black Diamond Z4 Camalots, and FIXE Alien Revolution Cams. They are popular, so people are familiar with them. 170 (2008), the 1970s rock legend Henry Barber said he still didn’t use SLCDs. 3. Other full-sized climbing cam sets include Black Diamond C4 Camalots, Black Diamond Ultralight Cams, Totem Cams, and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. 5") - most cams with cable eye or rigid stem . Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. The popularity and durability of these cams means they have excellent resale value. Totem MT manufactures high performance climbing gear. Your climbing partners will be familiar with your rack, and you'll be familiar with your partners' rack. Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. This allows you to slide the unit inside a crack. Oct 1, 2020 · Learn how to choose the best climbing cams for trad climbing, a versatile and challenging form of rock climbing. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Typically climbers buy offset cams after they already own "regular" equal lobed cams. OPEN LOOP (4. On the downside this means they are very inflexible along the stem and so are subject to walking - a big drawback for a micro cam. Price, product page $399. The Climbing magazine is producing a series of how-to videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or columnar basalt. If you decide you don't like them or to stop trad climbing, you can sell them easily. I’ve used the cams often and they’ve all seen a handfull of A spring-loaded camming device (also SLCD, cam or friend) is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment. They have a flexible cable stem and recessed cam spring design, and also have a narrow head design, which is optimal for shallow placements. 34 Shop trad climbing cams online from Trango. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Find climbing cams from leading brands like Black Diamond, DMM and Wild Country at Rock+Run. More info: DMM Website Oct 4, 2019 · I n 2015 Rob Greenwood reviewed the Totem Cams. 95 Camming devices are something that every climber should have in their kitbag before even considering climbing a wall or rockface. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot bigwalls. The Trango Flexcam feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. These highly engineered, sort of affordable, shiny spring-loaded gadgets allow safe passage up cracks narrower than a centimeter up to wide enough to fit your body inside. 7 out of 5 stars. BD climbing cams come in sizes ranging from #0. When you pull the spring-loaded trigger wire, these chunks of metal retract and make the device narrower. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. In this video, Julie Ellison, Climbing's gea Jan 30, 2018 · Light is right, and we feel that all the tweaks and redesigns to make these cams lighter hasn't affected their durability all that much, and we'd recommend these featherweight cams for free climbing or big wall climbing just about anywhere. 5″ sling Sep 8, 2020 · Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. Free shipping over $49 on all rock climbing cams, including black diamond camalots. 0 all the way up to #8. In this harsh environment, the steel parts will also corrode, even if they are stainless steel. Characteristics: Sep 30, 2015 · Good, solid, single axle cams with a useful double sling design. Apr 24, 2019 · Yates reslings nearly all cams including Wild Country, DMM, Aliens, Metolius, Totem, and Black Diamond. A friend or cam is a safety device used for securing alpine and sport climbing routes. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. Brands like Black Diamond and Wild Country offer high-quality cams for safe and secure climbs. net. It’s an active camming device, which the term "active" also distinguishes it from other securing devices. If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Aug 12, 2024 · Free Climbing. wcsxuc zlrkk myzyny mdu mntfr upfbl lnfx crg potqmu wxlo